Chapter 3 - Mohlabetsi Preserve

FYI - This entry is a little out of order.  I have tried several times to fix with no luck.  Sorry.



We would be heading out into the bush directly behind the lodge.  The animals would occasionally come in very close to the perimiter.  There are actually electrified fences along the perimiter to keep elephants from wandering too close.  They were made up of a couple wires no more than 12" off the ground.  Elephants don't lift their feet very high.

It didn’t take long for us to find our first herds of animals...

 

The impala were first and in the end, the most prolific.  Where ever we went we would find them.  Sometimes like this, in what is called a “bachelor herd.”  Sometimes a single male and his harem.  Sometimes a large group with a mixture of ladies and gentlemen.  They were everywhere. 

They are a little bigger than goats, but not by much.  They are also extremely fast.  In the larger groups, the young ones would be chasing each other around and it was amazing to see them gain speed with just a few steps. 



Impala



There is something about being on foot near an animal.  I realize these are only giraffes but standing on tehe ground near them made the experience more palpable and envigorating.  It's the difference between driving through the neighborhood and walking it.  You feel out of place but connected at the same time.











Waterbok



Time to move on.  The plan was to stop for sunset where the view was worthy (and safe) to enjoy teh end of the day, and a bit of drink.  Gin and tonics to be precise. 

On our way we would run into these pretty gals: Waterbok.   They are about the size of whitetail deer but with bigger torsos. 






Sunset...


So here we’re not only lavished with a beautiful sunset and a nice drink, but a wonderful story as well told by our guide and ranger, Hamilton.

As everyone knows, the majority of the population in Africa is very poor.  As with most poor populations, the professions of choice are often illegal.  In Hamilton’s case, his trade was poaching.  Ivory = $$$, especially when you consider the tusk of a large bull elephant can weigh as much as 200 lbs.  And that’s for each of the pair.  With the decline in the elephant population and the increase in number of game wardens, it was only a matter of time for Hamilton.  Before too long he found himself arrested and looking for a new job.  His education lacking, he found his options limited.  He began working at a safari lodge making beds.  He traded in his rifle for some bed sheets and pillowcases.  Little did he know, his next career change would come hunting for him.



Sundowner

 A group of travelers took a liking to Hamilton.  So much so that upon a return trip, they requested they be put in rooms he would be managing.  The friendship that blossomed led to a small gift for Hamilton: a zoological book that documented skeletal structure and footprints among other subjects.  Hamilton devoured the book.  His poaching days, combined with his refined knowledge of animals built a confidence in him he had never known.  Before long, he found himself spending time with the trackers and rangers who also worked at the lodge.  One day, after his new found knowledge and confidence had gotten the best of him, he was put to the test.  “So you think you can track?” said another ranger.  “I know I can,” said Hamilton.

“Let’s go.”

Hamilton mid-story.

The housekeeper whose mouth was full of confidence would not be allowed to back down.  Into the bush they went.

It was not long before they crossed tracks.  “Lion,” said Hamilton.  “How long ago?” said the Ranger.  “An hour,” said Hamilton.  They two men followed the trail with the wannabe tracker shaking with excitement and fear.  His strength and capability would be soon tested as it hadn’t since his poaching days.  An hour and a half after breaking the lion trail, with light fading, Hamilton stopped ten yards from a large bush.  The housekeeper was not tired.  His heart was pounding as adrenaline coursed through his body.  On the other side of the bush, only 15 yards away, was his lioness.  Hamilton did not catch the queen of the jungle by surprise.  She vocalized her awareness and moved around the bush to meet his gaze.  Pounding, his heart in his ears, his life in the balance, Hamilton’s instincts took over.   The eternal question each human is faced with in situations like this was wasted on Hamilton.  There was no flight.  He went straight for her.  On foot, no weapon to defend with, he rebuked her advance.  She fled. 

Eighteen years later, here Hamilton stands with the Knopicks'.

A gin and tonic never tasted so good.  My wife at my side, a South African sunset, and triumphant story of the human spirit; life is pretty sweet.

On a side note, we also saw quite a few of them being sold in stores …in the form of jerky.

Tried it.  Not bad.  Kate had one bite and that was enough for her.

Our next group would be a herd of thirty or so Cape Buffalo.  They would be the second of Africa’s legendary “Big 5” we would encounter.  The first having been the filling station rhino.    For those that don’t know, the Big 5 are a group of animals considered to be the most dangerous to hunt on foot.  Now although many have been fortunate to see them all, it is not unusual for it to take multiple safaris to accomplish this feat.  Needless to say, we were hoping to go 5 for 5 on our trip.

I don’t think Kate will mind me mentioning that during our initial foray into the herd she was white knuckled and a little worried.  Had she known their responsibility for over 200 deaths a year has earned them the nickname of “Black Death,” I probably would have been left with more than fingerprints in my thigh. 

Cape Buffalo

Her anxiety would be short lived, and we would find out quickly she has an excellent eye and was often the first to spot an animal.  Like this beauty…

warthog

Shortly after, we noticed quite a few large birds in the area.  Our hope was the birds meant there was a kill in our vicinity. 

Our ranger, Hamilton, would dispel the idea after a solo mission into the bush came up empty.  At that point, our disappointment was outweighed by surprise over how fearless our ranger appeared to be.  With no one to watch his back, and his shotgun fastened to the dashboard, he had wandered alone to look for a kill. 

Later he would tell us a story that would explain and solidify our trust in his expertise.  You’ll have to wait a little to hear about that one.

Shortly after Hamilton’s return, a quick left onto another trail led to a halt in our drive.  On his brief excursion Hamilton had noticed a group of animals very close by.  Our stop was made because we were heading out on foot to meet the group…

Rule 4 of game driving…

When leaving the vehicle, always stay close to the guy with the shotgun. 

There would be several occasions on which we would leave a vehicle during a game drive.  They would however only be in a wide open area that would allow us to see animals approaching from a long way off.  Or, like you can see here, in the company of an armed ranger.

In the safe hands of Hamilton and doing my best to watch my wife’s “6,” we were ecstatic to come upon these gentle giants…

Giraffe

They were a family of seven.  We would see them three times in two days.  Not known for being the brightest of animals, they either didn’t mind us being close or were too dumb to feel threatened. 

The light faded quickly and soon we were headed back toward the lodge, or so we thought.  Our drive home was interrupted by a CB call from another ranger.  Sitting in the backseat, the message was relayed from one row to another and finally to us, “Lions have been sighted.”

What I have failed mention up until now, is that Mohlabetsi is not a fenced in reserve.  The animals that cross this territory have the ability to walk all the way to Kruger National Park.  120 kilometers away.  The animals move without confinement which means when they are in the vicinity, one must take advantage. 

Throughout they drive we were never moving much faster than ten or fifteen miles per hour.  After the lion message was relayed, we were doing 60.  At our rate of travel, it was not long before we came upon the other vehicles.

We parked right behind the first Rover and killed the engine.  Almost immediately and twenty yards to our left, the first lioness appeared.  She stepped out of some brush and was shortly followed by another pair of females.  They would cross between our vehicle and the next, taking no notice of us.  They were like ghosts.

They were soon followed by three more lionesses and finally the male.   Although the darkness did not provide for an ideal photographic situation, it did mean we had come upon this pride beginning a hunt. 

After the pride made its way through our vehicle and the one ahead of us, it split up.  Ahead of us lay a very larger watering hole.  The male, flanked by two females walked directly ahead and took refuge at the top of the slope next to the water (represented by the yellow X’s.)  Very quickly, our party realized across the reservoir four Waterbok were drinking.  The pride had spread out along the watering hole to watch their prey drinking 500 yards away.  In the meantime, the spotlight in the vehicle to our right had found a hippo in the water across from the Waterbok.   It took very little time for the hippo to become agitated by the spotlight.  After a couple minutes it was thrashing around as well as grunting and showing clear signs of aggression.  Unfortunately it meant we needed to vacate the area and miss the hunt.  The image below gives a rough idea of the lay of the land.

Our last shot of the male lion before the hippo forced us to vacate the area.

And so safety trounced the desire to stay for a hunt and our drive had come to an end.  Any splinter of disappointment was quickly eliminated as our arrival back at the lodge was greeted with a fabulous meal under the stars.   We also received the honeymoon treatment with some complimentary champagne, which is nice.